Kohl, The Great Equalizer
A deep dive on historic eyeliner and why I might honestly return to the old ways
I have vague memories from childhood of delicate vials filled with crushed black powder gleaming on the bathroom counter. A memory I share with Egyptian queens and Babylonian priestesses—the ancient ritual of kohl.
Early written records of kohl describe it as a dried black powder made of various minerals, ores, burnt bark or nuts, and soot. Minerals like Galena (a type of lead) and Antimony (a metalloid) were shiny and black— which meant that when powdered and applied, they created a shimmering black line around the eyes. Sometimes, it was mixed with an emulsifier like animal fat or plant oil to make application easier.
Throughout history, it was thought to be more than just a cosmetic. It was protection against the glare of sunlight, an antimicrobial, and an insect repellent. Beyond the physical uses of kohl, it was widely considered as protection against the evil eye and employed during temple ceremonies.
While it was used by nobility throughout history, it was also a great equalizer— used across social classes and found in the most lavish tombs as well as modest burials.
Kohl use (probably) predates writing, but written records date back to Ancient Egypt— 3100 BCE. Medical texts from this time period were found depicting kohl as treatment for various eye diseases. In Mesopotamia, records mention kohl use as early as 2500 BC and its use spread through the Mediterranean thanks to the near constant trade in these regions.
It spread to the Arabian Peninsula and found use among Bedouin tribes for understandable reasons- the sun glare is no joke over there.
There are written texts from the Indus Valley & South Asia, depicting various kohl recipes made from soot, coconut oil, and burnt cloves. It was believed to protect against the evil eye and illness— a common theme.
Unsurprisingly, kohl was all the rage during the Islamic Golden Age and was used throughout the spread of the empire— as science and medicine increased in popularity. As the wave of Islam spread throughout North and West Africa, so did kohl use.
The Tuaregs of the Sahara Desert still use kohl to this day— by both men and women. It’s seen as a part of daily grooming, like brushing your teeth. It protects the wearer from sun glare and sand— and for men, it reflects maturity and coming of age.
It’s an interesting example of how the Tuareg culture bends gender norms. They are matrilineal— heritage and clan identity descend through the mother line. Property like cattle and tents are often inherited by the daughters. It’s not strictly matriarchal, men are extremely important as chiefs, warriors, and in political leadership. It’s a balanced system—women enjoy status, freedom, and influence while men lead in the political and protective spheres— and both men and women wear kohl.
While it was seen as a medicine for the better part of history, in actual fact, preparations using lead were toxic and posed serious health risks— daily use of galena could cause literal lead poisoning.
It’s worth pointing out that the toxins we currently use in modern eyeliners can cause serious issues as well. Parabens, preservatives, and heavy metals (yes, still) exist in modern eyeliners on the shelves right now. Brands like Revlon and Sephora have preservatives and parabens that can cause irritation, neurotoxicity in infants, and hormone disruption.
In essence, we have moved from intentionally applying known toxins to unknowingly applying questionable ingredients— solely for cosmetic purposes.
In terms of lead exposure, modern products are usually safer but when it comes to overall long-term health, I don’t think the margin is as wide as we’d expect. Personally, I’m interested in trying a modern -lead free- version of kohl. I like the idea of having the same brass vials in my medicine cabinet as my grandmother and her grandmother before her.
Kohl bridged worlds— linking the palace with the village, the sacred with the everyday. Its use spans across generations and through empires, and continues today as a cultural thread, weaving the nomadic Tuaregs of the Sahara with the cosmetic shoppers in Sephora— one product, many lifetimes.
More soon,
Kenza ✨🌱
